2007 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

It’s not out of the realm of possibility to see wines as people. I wouldn’t even pigeonhole certain people in certain varietals, but some wines just seem to evoke wholly organic, thoughtful qualities similar to those that people emit in their actions and dress. When we drank this Dönnhoff, a 2007 Oberhauser Leistenberg Kab over the summer, thoughts of teenagers in tuxedos popped into my mind, the juxtaposition of gangly juveniles in tailored sportswear. The flavors in this wine spoke of resting at the intersection of youth and maturity. When Helmut Dönnhoff said that Rieslings were best at the first two to three years or after ten, it certainly applied to this particular wine.I’m quite partial to the 2007 Germans because I think they maintain a firm balance between price and quality, with no compromise in either area. I think it’s underrated compared to the 2001 and 2002 vintage, and the price simply cannot be beat. The best of the best are reasonably priced in the $50-$70 range, and mind you, that’s for your Ausleses and Grosses Gewächs, your Erste Lage, or the highest classifications of quality each has to offer. And that’s if you’re feeling a little flush. I’ve elaborated upon my love for the 2007 Selbach Oster Zeltiger Sonnenuhr Kab, a wine which I consider an absolute steal at $22. This Dönnhoff was around $27 when we bought it, and it’s a dandy, easy drinker. The Kabs are fantastic from this vintage and have flavors and finishes as clean as freshly minted bills- smooth, smooth, smooth is the key with the ones we’ve had lately.Drinking this was just a relaxing experience, a quality I’m guessing most don’t associate with teenagers. But this had a nice maturity for its age and a simplicity to its flavor that drew you in without boring you. No frippery or freakishness to speak of, just a clean, professional grip on the tongue like a firm handshake and a beautiful tight focus throughout each sip. It had a perfumey, intoxicating nose with a subtle foreshadowing of the acidity to come with curiously wintry scents of pomander, honey, cinnamon and baked ripe apples, but flavors that erred toward the late summery side- pineapple, grapefruit, and the slight salinity of slate, that Dönnhoff terroir rearing its head! With those flavors came a crafted body of steel that stood up to accidentally overspiced shrimp kebobs and grilled peppers with a dignified structure despite the onslaught of heat and spice. It developed well over the course of an hour and a half or so of drinking with a flavor that never seemed to wane or diminish with time. I have a 2007 Dönnhoff Niersteiner Hermannshole Spat on queue that I’m curious to crack into after trying this. If it has any of the brimming potential and underlying excitement that this had, it should make for a real treat.

2007 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

MSRP $27
91/100

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About Jess
Rotten? Perhaps. Sweet? Without a doubt. Welcome to Nobly Rotten- the wine site that dares to be a little off.

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