2008 Georg Breuer “Terra Montosa” Riesling

Egon Muller of Egon Muller Scharzhof says that the Riesling grape “will never be an obvious grape with an obvious flavor like Chardonnay.” And he’s damned right about it. In fact, that’s what makes Riesling one of my favorites, that it has the tendency to beguile the senses with a complexity spanning continents and terrains. It transports you to another place with a mere whiff, no small feat for a typically light, summery varietal.When I tasted this selection from Georg Breuer, the 2008 Terra Montosa, provided by Classical Wines, I was reminded of this quote in the flavors and scents that wafted from its surface. Right from the start, it had a solemnity not only in its sparse label and dark, arboreous bottle, but in its scent, a light, clean, oceanic nose with a distinct scent of wet river stones, a somewhat acidic, gaseous smell, and a tinge of sulfur. It was difficult to detect any fruit at all, though some peachy and citrusy notes came out after a few vigorous swirls.
While I’ve never been partial to wines that lustily give it all away in the first ten minutes of tasting, only to wheeze and putter through the remaining two hours it takes to finish a bottle, this wine was somewhat annoying to coax out of its shell. Its initial flavor was queerly somber and distant, and took a while to develop in the mouth despite being served at a relatively mild temperature. When the flavor developed, it showed a lively acidity with a slight petillance, innocuous texture, and a sweet, but diminished pear and peach flavor. 

As it goes, I suppose that I like my Rieslings erring toward the slutty side. This was delicious once it opened up but still felt like it had a ways to go even then. I couldn’t get into this like I had with the AJ Adam. It proved itself to be versatile and quenched our thirsts over an unfortunately oversweetened pasta sauce. Any other sweeter Riesling would have been downright saccharine, but this found its gastronomic match. I imagine the light simplicity of sashimi would also work well here. Consumed on its own, it’s best served with a good, long rumination. It’s a complex and fascinating find.

2008 Georg Breuer Terra Montosa
MSRP $22
83/100

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About Jess
Rotten? Perhaps. Sweet? Without a doubt. Welcome to Nobly Rotten- the wine site that dares to be a little off.

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