2010 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett

I’m a huge fan of oddities, and I’m a huge fan of deals. The wines from A.J. Adam include both. Adam’s vineyard is a little over a decade old and is producing some of the finest wines this side of the Mosel. I say that with a little over a decade’s experience of Riesling sampling under my belt. For starters, the 2010 vintage report for German Rieslings is said to be one of the most polarized vintages of the decade. These wines are superfreakier than Rick James himself and get down and dirty in record time. Tantalized by wines that are able to get a little freaky, I’ve already stored away a few ’10’s from Adam as well as Donnhoff, and I’m anxious to see how these mature. This is a producer to not only watch out for, but to purchase while the prices are low. At $33, it delivers some of the most bang for your buck that I’ve seen for a Riesling of its age.

In the words of The Simpsons, this wine is “groin-grabbingly transcendent.” It smells almost pubescent at first, not surprising considering it’s only about a year old. An amateur whiff finds this snappy and vibrant, a predominant waft of pineapple rising into the nostril. Sipping, though, allows the mask to recede. This is like drinking Stanley Kubrick’s Lolita. The mouthfeel is typical of a wine twice its age- lush and silky, but the flavor is youthful and vibrant with a curiously bracing acidity. This is a wine that holds nothing back, with an authoritative whip crack of acidity at the forefront of the palate and a shivering bite with each swallow. Each sip is cruel, but benevolent.This kab in particular starts out with a near-electric shock of the aforementioned sour bite, not a surprise considering its 10.8 grams of acidity, and ten, eleven seconds into the sip, just as you’re quietly considering spitting it out and putting a car battery to your tongue for a change of pace, it goes sweet on you, the acidity waning slightly (never entirely) to reveal a delicate, mineral-laden side not unlike a spatlese. What gives? This wine exhibits more of the warning signs of emotional abuse than Chris Brown does. And yet, it’s beautiful. It’s a monster, and a jacked one at that, but one that hides behind a glossy, perfect veneer. I couldn’t have seen this coming a mile away. Needless to say, this stomped on our pommes anna and laughed in the face of our lemon pepper roast chicken. Caveat emptor, this will be a tricky wine to pair food with because it dominates everything within a mile’s radius. But don’t let that deter you.
Terry Thiese says about this year’s vintage that “what’s good is absurdly good, and there are enough of them. What’s not good is a mess.” While this may seem like the potable equivalent of your ex-girlfriend, it’s not. It’s more multi-faceted, sharper, and likely has better tonguing action. Minutes after swallowing my last sip, I was feeling the aftermath of the acidity in the inside of my mouth and on the tip of my tongue. It’s just as good as any Donnhoff I’ve had, earning the rank of “best first impression” from a new German producer. Whether this consistency will span its other vintages, only time will tell. As far as these particular wines go, I have three of these in storage now and I am anxiously awaiting the next opportunity to crack one open. Whether that will be one, five, or ten years in the future is yet to be determined, but I’m confident that these can only get more quixotic and brash as the years go on.

2010 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett
MSRP $32.95
95/100

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About Jess
Rotten? Perhaps. Sweet? Without a doubt. Welcome to Nobly Rotten- the wine site that dares to be a little off.

One Response to 2010 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett

  1. Pingback: 2008 Georg Breuer “Terra Montosa” Riesling « Nobly Rotten

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