1952 Paul Jaboulet Ainé Côte-Rôtie Les Jumelles

As I write this, my heart is pounding. I think one of the most common misconceptions is that the older a wine is, the better it is. And while I know that that’s not completely true, having suffered through many a corked wine that is simply “over the hill,” part of me wonders how I’m going to follow this particular specimen. And likewise, I wonder if another misconception along similar lines is that the older the critic, the better the writing. While this may seem somewhat presumptuous, both my writing and this wine deserve your full attention. We drank this at dinner a few weeks ago, paired with a medium rare steak and roasted garlic rosemary red potatoes. Most wines pair well with steak, but this 1952 Paul Jaboulet Ainé Côte-Rôtie Les Jumelles renders a ribeye superfluous.This wine tastes like meat in a bottle. If the sci-fi filmmakers of the B-movie genre had tasted this, they surely would have abandoned their food pill conceptions for a food shot. We didn’t decant this, yet roughly five seconds after pouring this, we started to smell meaty, mushroomy scents emanating from the ruby red wine. The wine was rich burgundy in color with little cloudiness and sediment. The first taste yielded a rich and tangy flavor with a substantial mouthfeel, full in the mouth with a bloody, metallic edge. It truly had similar qualities of a rare steak on a wood-fire grill, wafting smoky flavors not unlike the smells outside in the October, New England air, woodsmoke fires, wet leaves, crisp air, and all. Bacon lovers, start saving up. You’ve never tasted porcine goodness like this before.
Of course, every rose has its thorns, and in this case, every steak has its mad cow disease. Consumed within the hour, it was a beautiful thing to behold. Of course, all good things must come to an end, and when the flavors faded, we truly began to see the effects of its age. These flavors had very little staying power, cruelly taunting us with the pure flavors of fall only to whisk them away a mere hour after pouring, leaving behind a tasty, yet weak flavor compared to the manly symphony of muscle and power we’d tasted moments before. While mimicking the classic flavors of a steakhouse, it was simply too fleeting to stand a multi-course dinner. If these flavors had remained consistent throughout the meal, it would be rated much higher. It seems as though it is nearing its aging window, though I cannot say for sure how it will taste in future years.

1952 Paul Jaboulet Ainé Côte-Rôtie Les Jumelles
MSRP $499


About Jess
Rotten? Perhaps. Sweet? Without a doubt. Welcome to Nobly Rotten- the wine site that dares to be a little off.

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